[Allagash Guide Service]

One of my favorite things about guiding is that no two trips are ever the same. Every trip is different because every group is different, and our job is to make sure each adventure fits the people we are guiding—not just the itinerary.

Originally, our plan was to paddle what we call the “Allagash River Relaxer.” When the river is running above 1,000 CFS, it’s one of my favorite guided trips. We launch at Henderson Bridge, about 32 miles from the town of Allagash, and enjoy a relaxing paddle all the way to our private takeout.

Unfortunately, river levels had dropped to 616 CFS, so Brandon changed the route to launch at Umsaskis and take out at Michaud Farm.

The evening before the trip, we stopped by The Bear’s Den, where my guests—a family of four—were staying, to deliver their dry bags and sleeping pads. While we were talking, one of the paddlers mentioned mom wasn’t feeling well and wondered if there was an even easier option. Absolutely. That’s one of the advantages of having multiple routes available. We adjusted the trip once again, deciding to launch at Henderson Bridge and finish at Michaud Farm instead, leaving us with an easy 15-mile paddle. Everyone loved the idea, so we pushed our departure back from 7:00 a.m. to a much more relaxed 8:30 a.m.

Day 1

The morning started with coffee and donuts at the lodge before loading everything up and heading to Henderson Bridge. By about 10:00 a.m., we had the boats loaded, said goodbye to our transportation driver, and were on the river.

It didn’t take long before we were seeing ducks, an eagle soaring overhead, and enjoying one of those beautiful Maine summer mornings.

When we reached Round Pond, we couldn’t believe our luck. A group was just leaving Inlet, one of our absolute favorite campsites on the entire waterway. We quickly unloaded the canoes, carried everything up to camp, and got everyone settled in.

The rest of the afternoon was exactly what an Allagash trip should be. We sat around the picnic table getting to know each other, and the family introduced us to a card game called Bullshit. I have to admit—it quickly became a trip favorite.

Later, we paddled across Round Pond to visit Jalbert Camps, where we happened to meet a gentleman with deep ties to the camp’s history. Listening to him tell stories about the property was an unexpected highlight and something you just can’t plan for.

When we returned to camp, we decided to hike the Round Pond Fire Tower Trail. As everyone was getting into the boats, Brandon quietly pointed toward a nearby cove where a moose was feeding. Mom had mentioned earlier that seeing a moose was at the top of her wish list, so it couldn’t have worked out any better.

The hike itself is about 5 miles round-trip, with fairly easy walking until the last few hundred yards, where it gets considerably steeper. It was windy on top, but I couldn’t resist climbing the fire tower to grab a few photos.

Back at camp, Brandon cooked steak, diced potatoes, and green beans over the fire. After supper, I was going to paddle over toward the same cove hoping to do a little fishing when I spotted yet another moose. I quickly paddled back to bring Mom over for a closer look, but by the time we rounded the corner, it had disappeared into the woods.

That evening ended with strawberry cheesecake before everyone headed to bed early after a wonderful first day.

Day 2

After hearty breakfast burritos, we packed camp and headed downstream.

Earlier this summer, we paddled this exact stretch at nearly 1,800 CFS, so seeing it at 616 CFS was incredible. Round Pond Rips had become extremely rocky, and every line through the rapids had to be carefully picked.

Our guests had chosen kayaks, which meant Brandon and I carried all of the gear in our canoes. We were loaded pretty heavily, so there were a few places where we had to hop out and wiggle the canoes through shallow sections, but overall it was very manageable.

Throughout the day we continued spotting ducks, bald eagles, and fish jumping along the river. We even got to see a doe and her fawn along the river.

Lunch was at Five Finger Brook West. Normally there’s enough current there to make landing a little tricky, but with the low water it was barely moving. We enjoyed one of my favorite trail lunches—block cheese, pepperoni, summer sausage, crackers, and plenty of conversation. Sometimes the simplest meals taste the best.

That afternoon we paddled into Deadwater North, another favorite campsite. After getting camp set up and filtering water, the heat and humidity convinced all of us to jump in for a swim.

Not long afterward, the wind really picked up—stronger than we have ever experienced on that stretch of river. We held off putting up the Kelty tarp until things calmed down later in the evening.

Dinner that night was quarter chicken, potatoes, and corn cooked over the campfire, followed by cinnamon rolls, cookies, and s’mores for dessert.

Just before dark, the family’s son spotted another moose walking across the river above the islands. It wasn’t a place I would’ve expected to see one, which made it even more exciting.

That evening we played another round of our new favorite card game before everyone turned in. Brandon and Dad stayed around the campfire for another couple of hours, solving all the world’s problems while enjoying the peacefulness of the Allagash.

Day 3

I woke up to one of those mornings that reminds me exactly why I love this place. The water was calm, birds were singing, and everything was perfectly quiet.

After breakfast sandwiches, we packed camp a little quicker than normal because thunderstorms were forecast later that morning. As we paddled toward Michaud Farm, we could hear thunder rumbling behind us, but luckily we were only a couple of miles from the takeout. Somehow, the storm stayed behind us the entire way, and we never got a drop of rain.

On the drive back, I asked everyone what their favorite part of the trip had been.

Both kids immediately answered the hike to the fire tower. They hadn’t expected it and said it ended up being one of the highlights of the trip—although they could’ve done without the bugs!

Dad said his favorite memory was sitting around the campfire talking with Brandon late into the evening.

Mom didn’t even hesitate.

“The moose.”

Seeing multiple moose throughout the trip made the experience everything she had hoped it would be.

The family also mentioned they wished Mom had been feeling better so they could have paddled a longer route, but they were so thankful we were able to completely adjust the trip on short notice to fit exactly what they needed.

That’s what guiding means to us. River conditions change. Weather changes. People don’t always feel their best. Our job isn’t simply to paddle people down the river—it’s to adapt, listen, and create the best experience possible. Every trip is different, and honestly… we wouldn’t have it any other way.

[Morgan Ingari]

Deadwater North was also one of our favorite campsites in our early July trip! We sadly got to round pond so late in the day that all the sites were taken and we had to hoof it to Croque Brook, the first available site after that – we were starting to get a bit worried we’d be sleeping in canoes! 

Inlet looked so beautiful I’d love to stay there on a subsequent trip. Sounds like you guys had a wonderful trip!

[Allagash Guide Service]

I have been to that campsite, and I would absolutely stay in my Canoe next time over staying at Croque Brook. I’ve never been to that campsite when it is mowed nicely. And when I was there, there were snakes everywhere. — now I know I’m in the wilderness, but something about sleeping with the snakes just doesn’t sit right ha ha

 

You absolutely should come back up. I would recommend the first couple of weeks of June. The river is much quieter, the Fishing is wonderful, and the water isn’t shivering cold.

[Author]

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